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Dear friends, I want to render a stereo image and started 'calculating left eye image' several hours ago. I've rebdered and saved four images already and suggested to calculate left eye image for the fifth time  :o (though I have 1 left eye and 1 right eye). I agreed and clicked. Will You tell me how many images should there be calculated and what is the further procedure? I am ignorant in the field of stereo imagery - beg You pardon for a newbie question.
Thank You in advance,
Sfumato.

I am finding your description of your procedure confusing.  When I do stereo images I only render two images, the left eye and the right eye.  Why did you render five?
Also, what are you using to put the left and right eye images together (if you are using photoshop I can help) and are you wanting it to work with or without the red&blue glasses?

Thank You, BrutalToad!
I'm calculating 9th left eye image btw just now :o
1). Procedure:
When I entered the 'Stereo' Tab I remained the parameters as they were and pressed the button 'Calculate left eye image' expecting afterward I would be suggested to to calculate the right eye image. Time passed and render was over I saved m3i and png files and found out that the same button is active in the 'Stereo' Tab: 'Calculate left eye image' again, it didn't change to 'Calculate right eye image'. I supposed I needed two left eye images for some reasons (- ?) and pressed the button once again...
The situation repeats for the ninth time as I mentioned above and all the images are different, i. e. POV slightly changed. I don't understand how I calculate the right eye image (shall I simply 'Calculate 3D')?
Sorry, but I failed to find any HowTo throughout the forum posts.
What should I do after my 9th render is over?
2). Concerning further actions I work in Photoshop (for years) and will be grateful if You will explain me my further steps.
3). I am using anaglyph glasses (red&blue) and they work pretty well for stereo images for me.
P. S. Btw I don't understand how to view 3D Stereoscopic images like this:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5213/5387575962_4da8359b74_o.jpg
since I can't cross my eyes to see one image or am I doing something wrong again?
Grateful in advance, with kindest regards,
Sfumato.

I see, the Readme is misleading on this topic.. have to make it more clear.

The 'right-eye' image would be the usual image that you render with the parameters, then you have to render the second one, what is called the 'left-eye' image by pressing the specific button.  That is all, sorry for the unprecise description.  :sad1:

Thank You Jesse! In the back of my mind the idea occurred to me but I decided to be patient waiting for 'right eye' to appear on the button, hoping the more left eyes there would be the more stereoscopic my scene would look like (I've got 16 !) :dink:
With kindest regards,
Sfumato.

So its not you on the image,  :boooo: - just got a little attracted

Thank You for compliments, Jesse :D

Still got questions concerning stereo images:
Can someone explain me the 'Minimal distance parameter' in 'Stereo' Tab?
As far as first two parameters is concerned everything seems clear since I can measure my image width (.42m) as well as screen distance. But what does it mean that 'Minimal distance parameter' 'defines how near in meters the Z_start plane lies in front of you'? Or should I enter the parameters from Z_start field?
I prepared a couple of images for anaglyph picture, leaving 'Minimal distance parameter' intact (o.5 by default). The result was far from being stereoscopic...
Thank You in advance,
Sfumato.

I'm not completely sure, but I think it basically just defines how close the foreground is to you in relation to the objects further away.  Anaglyph image depth depends on the distances between the red and blue images. I think it basically sets the distance you want the closest object to be from you.

But I am not positive, sorry:-/

Thank You, BrutalToad!
I hope that will help, I'll try to experiment and make it clear,
With kindest regards.
Have a lovely weekend,
Sfumato.

In the animation box there is a render stereo animation box. Clicking that causes both left and right eye frames to be calculated, looks like in groups of 10 alternating(rendering). Are there some docs on stereo somewhere? Looking for some tips on combining them. Looks like the Prog does everything else for you (calc&save:)

The right eye image is the original image. You need an external processing program to put the images together and make the Anaglyph. Programs such as Stereo Photo Maker or Anabuider.

Hi folks,

I too have recently been fiddling about with the stereo image function in Mandelbulb3D - and as Skyzyk stated, the resultant output needs treatment with an external program.

Not knowing which one would be the best (for me), I have tried numerous free offerings, including:
stereo photo maker, 3-D anaglyph maker, 3-D image compiler, stereo movie builder and stereo AVI converter. For some reason, all but the latter, follow the trend like Mandelbulb3D,
in not using a Windows installer. I can say with some conviction that (IMHO) the quickest, easiest, best user interface and most comprehensive, is stereo photo maker (SPM) by far (and its sister, stereo moviemaker).

You simply place your left and right images into separate folders, open a left and then a right picture into SPM and it automatically locates all the other pictures in the sequence. You can then do a number of processes onto the images, for example, exchange L&R side-by-side images for either cross-eyed or parallax (no glasses) view, above and below, red and blue glasses, interlaced, yellow and blue glasses, as well as 'proper' 3D for those with the appropriate TV and glasses. You can also resize and alter frame rate etc.

With regards side-by-side, you can save each paired picture as a single stereo image or batch a slideshow, which then can be converted into a movie just as any other series of animation images. I also believe that you can create an alternative left or right image from a single stream of images, which would save you having to create both a left and right in the first place (but I have not use this function yet).

Well worth having a fiddle with if you're so inclined.

e.g. link http://www.stereoscopy.com/downloads/

hope this helps
Kam

Hi,
I have a pair of nvidia shutter glasses and, imo, well worth getting ...the images look so stunningly realistic, they are full screen and much better than cross-eyed etc imo.

An alternate method for getting stereo images out of the mandelbulb program.:
Instead of using the left eye calculatior, copy the right eye image(after saving it ) into navigator. then use 'shift' left a few units...the more units, the more the separation(eye distance). Now a further refinment you can do is, after using 'shift', is to use 'looking' and click a few units RIGHT after you have shifted left(maybe 25% of the units you shifted left by, experiment). This sets the convergance and you can get some great depth and pop out using this method. I use this because I cant work out how to set convergance in the proghrams stereo calculator.

For viewing I use paint shop pro to stitch the pics together(left eye on the right so cross eyed works) and save them with a .JPS extension(important for shutter viewing!). I then use the nvidia viewer to view them(have to select 'swop eyes').

How do I post an image here?. I click on 'insert image' but it just gives the tags and doesnt ask me for an image location. Thanks.

 

Hi gyphia,

This one caught me out too when I first started.
The thing is, you don't seem to need to click on 'insert image' (presumably this works if you have one held in the clipboard?). Instead, go below the text box and you will see Additional Options. Click on this and it will offer an 'Attach/Browse' option where you can search for your picture location in the usual manner.

 - Yeah, crosseyed is not too good for you - but without glasses it is do-able. I find sitting further away with a big screen is best for me.

As for the shutter specs - well, you still need a screen that will show 3D don't you. I'll have to try your method for getting 'great depth'. Pehaps good for stills but, for videos, I guess it would take forever setting them all individually.

regards
kam

Actually, the attach feature is not meant for images - the file size limit is restricting.  Attachments are better used for parameter files and other sorts of small documents.

It doesn't ask for the image location, but it does provide the tags.  Just paste the location between the tags like this:

That will produce this:

(http://nocache-nocookies.digitalgott.com/gallery/0/162_14_05_08_1_06_35.gif)

The image must be already hosted on the web someplace for that to work  (external image hosts like photobucket, imageshack, etc).  If you want to upload an image to this site, use the Gallery.  I actually used an image in my gallery here for that example   O0

Hope that helps.

D'oh! Yes it does.

And, yeah, the size limit is restricting. So, online hosting is how folk get so much embedded.

Sorry for the half-brain info.

regards
Kam

Thanks!.
 For shutter viewing you just need any monitor with a refresh of 120Hz. Yes, my method would be unusable for videoes. I could probably get the same results using the programs method, once I work out what the equivalent of screen convergance is. :). I like the full screen view with shutter glasses, with cross eyed you only get half full screen at most. If you generate and save the stereo images at your native screen resolution(mine is 1680 * 1050) and have a low DE stop setting when generating (about 0.5 or less) the detail is amazing and the even the most boring looking 2d pic springs into life.

As a general comment. I must say thanks to the guy(s) who wrote and developed the mandelbulb program, its a wonderful piece of work and exploring 3d fractals like this is fascinating. Its one of the most intuitive programs Ive used for this work.

The gallery here can host large images, it's just the file size in MB that must be watched.

Here's a large one from the gallery:

(http://nocache-nocookies.digitalgott.com/gallery/2/162_01_05_10_1_54_48.jpeg)


The same coding as before, just a different image: